Photographer and Filmmaker Jens Assur and his partner, Producer Jennie Assur, have travelled through Africa before, but always by car with a rooftop tent. In the summer of 2024 however, they gained an entirely new perspective of the continent– from their bike saddles – as they travelled east to west from the Indian Ocean to the Atlantic. ‘We experienced Africa in a completely different way,’ says Jens. ‘We felt the heat, we smelled the scents, we saw the colours, and we felt closer to the people.’
As is the shared experience with many bikepackers, Jens and Jennie enjoyed a greater sense of self-sufficiency and independence on their bikes. As Jennie says, ‘The feeling of freedom – moving forward by your own power, being so close to nature, and getting even closer to each other – it’s incredibly satisfying. You realise you’re capable of much more than you think.’
Though Jens and Jennie started the trip in August when landing in the coastal city of Beira, Mozambique, the adventure began long before with preparation of their bikes. They opted for two Tumbleweed Stargazer gravel bikes, which Jens describes as solid and reliable with great geometry. It was especially important to get to know the bikes beforehand, and they spent time learning to fix commonplace issues as there would be few opportunities to get spare parts or help with repairs.
Living in a small village in Northern Sweden with their four sons, Jens and Jennie are no strangers to outdoor adventures. Tapping into this expertise, they spent a good deal of effort on preparing their kit for the unique journey. They packed and repacked their tent, sleeping bags, stove, food, water, water filter, clothes, and spare parts until they were satisfied. They downloaded high-quality maps to a reliable GPS and entered important emergency numbers to their mobiles. They also adapted their medicine bag for the anticipated needs of the trip.
Jens and Jennie’s tips for international bikepacking
‘Get to know’ your bike
Learn how to repair things that might break during your trip. This is especially important in remote areas.
Start with short, close adventures
You learn something new about your equipment (and yourself) every time you’re out on your bike.
Use a reliable GPS
Downloading up-to-date maps before you set off is essential for safe and easy international bikepacking.
Have emergency numbers on hand
Both local and international contacts are important to have easily accessible.
Pack less, but the right, clothing
You need a lot less than you think you need, but ensure what you pack is multi-functional and can be layered to protect you from the sun, rain, wind, cold, and insects.
Well prepared, upon arrival in Beira, Jens and Jennie were ready to hit the ground…well…cycling. From there, they went westward through Mozambique towards the border of Zimbabwe and the rolling green Eastern Highlands. There, they encountered the first highlight of their journey, the lush village of Chimanimani. ‘It has incredible views and the most humble and kind people in the world,’ reports Jens. From there, they continued through Zimbabwe, via Bulawayo and Victoria Falls, to the border of Zambia. Naturally, they took in the massive waterfall and while there, packed a 6.2 kg box with items they didn’t need to send home. ‘Turns out two pairs of underwear are enough for six weeks in the saddle!’ says Jens.
Through the so-called Caprivi Strip in northern Namibia, they gave the bikes a break because cycling is not possible due to the wildlife. No problem! They arranged a ride with a local man in his pickup truck to the Okavango River on the border with Angola. It’s just one of the examples of hospitality Jens and Jennie were treated to throughout the trip. ‘The most rewarding part of the journey was the people,’ says Jens. ‘Arriving by bike, everyone wants to chat and ask questions. They offered help. We’ve never experienced such curiosity and kindness.’
From the Angolan border, they took to their bikes and continued south through Namibia. Aiming for Damaraland and Desolation Valley, they encountered desert elephants, rhinos, and zebras in this breathtaking mountain region. After five weeks in the saddle, they approached the breezy Atlantic coast. With a short stop in Henties Bay, they persevered against a strong headwind and arrived in Swakopmund.
Heat, loaded bicycles, bumpy and sandy roads are a challenging combination, but Jens and Jennie say that with a flexible mindset, plenty of breaks, and lots of laughter, travelling through Africa this way was especially fulfilling. As Jens says, ‘When you bikepack, you have everything you need with you, and each day’s task is fairly simple: to pedal as best you can. When you’ve set up your tent, crawled into your sleeping bag, and are lying there gazing at the stars with a tired and aching body, it’s an incredible feeling.’
